Archive for February, 2010

Bread and butter at the Grand Cafe, SF

Salted butter - Grand Cafe SF

While at a recent event in San Francisco I spent some time talking with Alison Bing, author of the Lonely Planet Guide / San Francisco about her dining adventures (she has my dream job:  she’s PAID to eat out!)  Somehow the conversation turned to dining etiquette and how this can influence your experience while out on the town (or at your favorite joint).  

The short list below is the culmination of our discussion and contains some things which seem obvious and others which are just simple, everyday reminders.  In the end, of course, it’s all about enjoying food with family or friends – and not having to wash the dishes later (unless you forget your wallet!)  

Dining Tips  

  • Timing.  The “be on time” statement seems obvious here, but remember, if you are even 10-15 minutes late your reservation COULD be in jeopardy.  If you arrive too late, there might not be enough time between your reservation and the next one on the books.
  • Gestures
    • Menu closed signals you are ready to order.
    • Napkin in your lap signals you are ready to eat!  Hint:  when sitting down immediately place your napkin in your lap.  If you get up from the table, fold it and place on the table (not on the chair).
  • Cell phones.  If you need to use you cell phone step away from the table and into a space where you can talk. 
  • Cafes
    • If using a computer (eg., working) consider ordering food/beverages regularly and tip (pocket change = not okay).
  • Servers.  Engage their expertise, ask opinions.  This is the best guarantee you will have a better experience and food.
  • Tips
    • 18% is the new 15%
    • Leaving no tip is never acceptable unless the waiter is outwardly insulting (say he/she asks your date out in front of you, which might be flattering to your date but uncomfortable for you).
    • 20-25% is given for above and beyond service
    • Don’t forget to tip on wine!
  • Remember the golden rule:  restaurants are a shared community so try to behave neighborly and be forgiving of those around you!   

Follow Alison Bing at Twitter/alisonbing

Brasato al Barolo over polenta.

Brasato al Barolo over polenta.

I read someplace recently that “spring is around the corner” and it’s time to think about light food.  With this in mind, I promise this will be my last post about comfort food…for a while.  In the meantime, I really, really had to publish this recipe because it’s just so tasty.

For starters, this recipe uses simple ingredients with minimal preparation.  The only thing you need a little of is time (and yes, thyme, the herb, too!)  However, make this on a weekend and then plan to dine on it during the week.  Braised beef is one of those dishes which gets better as it sits in your fridge (anywhere from 3-5 days) if you can wait that long to eat it!   In short, the recipe is FANTASTIC.   I’ve made this twice and the eaters couldn’t stop raving about the flavor (ok I admit, one of those diners was ME.)

Finally, I served the braised beef over quick-cooking polenta which is always a crowd pleaser.   And I will admit to using a standard, off the shelf bottle of red wine which didn’t seem to affect or detract from the flavor.

Brasato (braised) al Barolo

  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • 1 (3 – 3 ½ lb) boneless chuck roast
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • ½ teaspoon black pepper
  • ¼ lb sliced pancetta, finely chopped
  • 1 medium onion, finely chopped
  • 1 medium carrot, finely chopped
  • 2 celery ribs, finely chopped
  • 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 4 (4-6 inch) sprigs fresh thyme
  • 2 (6-8 inch) sprigs fresh rosemary
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 cups Barolo or other full bodied red wine (Ripasso Valpolicella, Gigondas or Cotes du Rhone)
  • 2 cups water

Equipment:  4-5 quart heavy ovenproof pot with lid.   Preheat oven to 325 degrees.  

Heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking.  Meanwhile pat meat dry and sprinkle with salt and pepper.   

Brown meat in hot oil on all sides, about 10 minutes total.  Transfer to a plate with fork and tongs.  Note:  if your boneless chuck comes wrapped in butcher’s twine, remove it so that your meat is browned and cooks evenly. 

Add pancetta to oil in pot and sauté over moderately high heat, stirring frequently, until browned and fat is rendered, about 3 minutes.  Add onion, carrot and celery and sauté, stirring occasionally until vegetables are softened and golden brown, 10 to 12 minutes.  

Add garlic, thyme, and rosemary and sauté, stirring until garlic begins to soften and turn golden, about 2 minutes.  Stir in tomato paste and cook, stirring, 1 minute.  Add wine and boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 5 minutes.  Add water and bring to a simmer, then return meat along with any juices accumulated on plate to pot.  Cover pot with lid and transfer to oven.  Braise until meat is very tender, 2 ½ – 3 hours. 

Transfer meat to a cutting board.  Skim fat from surface of sauce.  Boil until sauce is reduced by about one third.  Season with salt and serve with the meat. 

Cook’s note:

I often run an immersion blender (the Braun version is my personal fave – although difficult to come by these days) through the reduced sauce to smooth it out.  This is a preference but not a requirement.  Also, while polenta is a great base, egg noodles would work well too.

Recipe courtesy of Epicurious.

I like turkey but like a lot of people I only think about it as a sandwich filled or during the month of November.  Last week while perusing the butcher counter I came across a package of turkey legs and figured I’d give them a try (they were priced right:  about $7  for two).
 
When asked how I planned to prepare them I recalled a PBS episode where Jacques Pepin and Julia Child removed the bone and then stuffed the meat with stuffing.  I figured “how hard can that be?”  Well, it wasn’t hard for me as I gave instructions to a friend who was kind enough to wield the knife.  Once prepped (here’s where I step in!) the meat was flattened between plastic wrap, packed with stuffing (Pepperidge Farm is a good option) then tied up (below). 
 
The dish was roasted in a 350 degree oven to temperature and then sliced cross-wise.   I served this over the stuffing with a quick gravy (used the mac and cheese white sauce recipe, substituted the milk for turkey stock and minus the cheese) for a fun meal that had my guests raving.  Honestly I think it was less to do with the food and more to do with having a “Thanksgiving meal” outside of November.
 
Either way, it’s a tasty, economical dish to tide you over until the next turkey day!
Stuffing stuffed turkey.

Stuffing stuffed turkey.

Here’s a quick fix for the weather at hand.  The wontons can be made ahead and frozen until you need them.  I cook the wontons in a basic defatted chicken stock with some green onion on top.  Of course, you could also add a few extra items (hard boiled egg or veggies) for flavor and variety.  Just plain is good too!
 
Wonton Soup for Winter
  • ½ lb. ground pork (not lean)
  • 1 large egg yolk
  • 2 scallions, finely chopped
  • 1 (1 ½-inch) piece peeled fresh ginger, finely chopped
  • 1 tablespoon soy sauce
  • 1 teaspoon rice vinegar (not sesasoned)
  • ½ teaspoon Asian sesame oil
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • ¼ teaspoon white pepper
  • About 30 wonton wrappers, thawed if frozen
  • Chicken stock 

Stir together pork, yolk, scallions, ginger, soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, salt, and white pepper in a bowl in one direction with your hand until just combined (do not overwork, or filling will be tough). Fill all wrappers by placing a rounded teaspoon of filling in the center of the square.  Brush water around edges and then fold corner to form a triangle and enclose the filling.  Press edges firmly to seal.

Bring the stock to a simmer, add the wontons and cook about 3 minutes until filling is just cooked.

Recipe courtesy of Gourmet 

Won tons in waiting.

Wontons in waiting.

Won ton soup - a nice winter warmer!

A nice winter warmer!

The other day I had a craving for macaroni and cheese – and not the stuff from the blue box.   So I used an old recipe  for white sauce and threw in some cheese (in this case gruyere, cheddar and parmesan) along with toasted bread crumbs on top.  Delish!  And fast. 
Cheddar, gruyere and parmesan cheese and mac.  Yum.

Cheddar, gruyere and parmesan cheese and mac. Yum.

All purpose white sauce

  • 2 T. butter or margarine
  • 2 T. flour (all purpose)
  • 2 cups milk (warmed)
  • Salt (to taste)
  • White pepper (to taste)
  • Ground nutmeg
  • Squeeze of lemon
  • 10 oz. penne or other noodles 

Other additions:

  • Garlic (one clove, finely minced)
  • Tabasco (just a few shakes)
  • 1 T. Dijon mustard 

Melt the butter on medium heat.  When it bubbles gently, add the flour and stir well to combine.  Cook the butter/flour mixture for about 1 – 2 minutes.  Add the warmed milk and stir until it thickens.  Add salt, pepper.  If your sauce is bland, consider the lemon juice, garlic and Tabasco route (basic ingredients I use to “perk” up sauces).

Once your white sauce is made, add the cheese.  Stir until melted. 

  • ½ cup gruyere
  • ½ cup cheddar
  • ½ cup grated parmesan 

Note:  you can use all gruyere (instead of the cheddar addition) if you prefer. 

Pour over the pasta noodles and stir to combine.  Pour into a casserole and top with toasted bread crumbs.  Bake at 350 for approx. 30 minutes or until you see the mixture bubble vigorously.